printed and published by John Colbran, Library, High Street Tunbridge Wells, 1855

Many thanks to Kevin Wilkinson, who provided us the "fifth edition of Colbran's HAND-BOOK, (abridged from the Historical Guide for Tunbridge Wells) with the descriptive account of all objects of interests"

THE Publisher, in presenting the fifth edition of the HAND-BOOK, (abridged from his Historical Guide for Tunbridge Wells,) corrected to the present date, begs to express his gratitude for the extensive patronage that has been awarded to previous impressions, and hopes the present edition will maintain the character of being " the best and cheapest Guide," faithfully recording objects of interest and the local information requisite for the Visitor and Resident.
Royal Library, High Street, May, 1855.

TUNBRIDGE WELLS

THIS health-giving and fashionable place of resort contains about twelve thousand inhabitants, and is situated thirty-six miles from London by road, and forty-six by rail, with the villages of Pembury on the east, Frant on the south, Withyham on the west, and Southborough on the north; and is in three parishes and two counties, the former being Tunbridge, Speld-hurst, and Frant, and the latter Kent and Sussex. Scarcely a century ago it was an inconsiderable village, but it has been since then gradually, and within the last twenty years rapidly, increasing in size. In the year 1835 it was created a town, by the passing of a Local Act for the watching, lighting, and otherwise regulating its affairs. In August 1846, the royal assent was obtained for a second Improvement Act, which includes the management of the highways within the district, and the removal of the several turnpikes that formerly hemmed in and crossed the principal drives.

In the year 1603, Dudley, Lord North, was one of the favorites of Prince Henry, the son of King James the first, in whose court he was distinguished for his mental and personal endowments, and, what made him a still greater object of admiration in those times, for his numerous gallantries. In his twenty-fourth year the effect of these were felt in an impaired constitution and every symptom of a consumptive disease. Such indeed was his general state of debility, that his physicians deemed it absolutely necessary to remove him altogether from the scenes of gaiety and dissipation in which he was involved, to some part of the country where pure air and peaceful pursuits might tend to invigorate his debilitated constitution. Perhaps no place could have been better selected for the purpose than that which was chosen by his advisers, by whose persuasions his lordship determined upon visiting Eridge House, which is situated two miles from Tunbridge Wells, and was at that period a mere hunting seat, belonging to lord Abergavenny.

"They were accordingly consulted upon its virtues, and their judgment so perfectly coincided with lord North's opinion, that they immediately left town to examine it on the spot, and the result of their enquiries proved so favourable to this hitherto neglected spring, that they hastened back again to publish its valuable qualities, and to give their noble patient sufficient encouragement to try its efficacy on the return of the vernal season."

"Accordingly, (in 1607,) as soon as the warm weather came on, and the roads were dry enough to render a journey practicable, my lord North returned to Bridge, to add the power of the water to the purity of the air, and try how far their united force would contribute to restore strength and vigour to his shattered constitution."

The experiment, it appears, perfectly succeeded, and so completely renovated his lordship's health, that his death did not take place until the year 1666, when he had reached the advanced age of eighty-five.

The return of his lordship to court in the full enjoyment of health, when he had quitted it apparently in the last stage of consumption, naturally raised eager inquiries as to the causes which had effected this wonderful change. The virtues of the chalybeate waters were then made known to the higher circles of society, and corroborated as they were by the physicians and others who had analysed them, it became a matter of fashion to visit the spot and partake of the waters which had effected such a wonderful cure in so distinguished an individual.

As the spring which produced these wonders had its rise on the borders of lord Abergavenny's estate, his lordship inspected the spot in person, and commenced clearing the ground in the neighbourhood of the spring to make a readier and better access to it.

It is evident however, that the mere discovery of the springs did not establish Tunbridge Wells as a place of fashionable resort, for long after that period we find it in a most languishing condition for the want of proper sources of general amusement to cheer the convalescent, and to attract the healthy.

In the year 1630, the resuscitation of the Wells might be considered to have taken place, for previous to this date there were no dwelling-houses near the springs for the accommodation of the invalids who visited them, if we except a few hovels which were erected near them to afford temporary shelter in unfavourable weather. Tunbridge was the nearest town at which suitable lodgings could be procured, and from this circumstance the Wells took their name, although it has been said, they were originally called Fant (Frant) Wells.

In this year Queen Henrietta Maria was recommended by her physicians to try the Wells Waters. Her Majesty's delicate state of health would not allow of her residing far from the Springs, therefore as there were no houses erected near them, her Majesty and suite encamped on Bishop's Down, where they remained about six weeks.

Six years after the Queen's visit the first two buildings were erected in the immediate vicinity of the Springs. They were little better than cottages - one of them for the accommodation of gentlemen and the other for ladies. It is supposed that these houses were built in " Pink Alley," in a direct line from the Springs, and adjacent to them; one of them is said to have been the residence of Mrs. Humphreys, the original water-dipper. They are both pulled down. The last that remained was taken down in 1842.

The next twenty years, from 1640 to 1660, shew but a blank in the history of Tunbridge Wells. But upon the death of Cromwell and the happy restoration of the rightful monarch, the Wells began to assume a more flourishing aspect.

The year 1664 was probably the gayest among the records of Tunbridge Wells as it was then visited by Charles II, his Queen, and the greater portion of the distinguished individuals belonging to that licentious court.

The court remained at the Wells about two months, and it is probable that during their residence here many improvements were then commenced; for, about this time, Rusthall could boast of an Assembly Room, a Bowling Green, and other places of public diversion. The site of the Assembly Room is still to be seen on Rusthall Common.

In this year also, when Lord Muskerry was lord of the Manor, he displaced the original wood fencing put up by Lord Abergavenny, and built a stone wall round the Springs. His lordship also re-paved the interior, and placed a basin over the principal spring, and at the same time built a hall for the dippers.

Between the years 1665 and 1670, the place began to assume more of its present appearance than it had hitherto. The Assembly Room at Rusthall was abandoned, and one established at Mount Ephraim House, in a field to the north of which, at the back of Chancellor House, a bowling green was enclosed. A tavern was also built, and called the "The Castle." These alterations had been scarcely accomplished, when Mount Sion preferred its claim for a share of that prosperity which now began to show itself throughout the Wells, and from its contiguity to the Springs, it not only proved a formidable rival to, but speedily eclipsed Mount Ephraim.

In 1670, the place was visited by the Duke and Duchess of York, with their daughters, the Princesses Mary and Anne. From the following passage in the Rev. Dr. Owen's life, it would appear that their Royal Highnesses continued to reside in tents, -
"Being in a very languishing state of health in 1674, he was at Tunbridge Wells when the Duke of York was there. The Duke sent for him, and had several conversations with him in his tent about the dissenters and conventicles."

From the great increase of company which now resorted to the Wells, the Lord of the Manor of Rusthall, in 1676, thought it advisable to erect shops and dwelling-houses in the immediate vicinity of the Springs, and in order to carry his intentions into effect, he entered into an agreement with his tenants, to allow them ten shillings a year each, for a fifty year's lease, in lieu of their right of herbage.

In 1687, a fire accidentally broke out at the end of the walks, which totally consumed all , the buildings so recently erected, But as good frequently springs out of evil, so the destruction of the whole of these houses led to the building of more convenient ones. An assembly room, shops, dwelling-houses, &c., were erected with a portico in front, precisely, in fact, as the Parade is now seen, with the exception of most of the present houses having been modernized in their appearance.

In the year 1688, so memorable to Englishmen for the "glorious revolution" that was effected, the Princess Anne of Denmark visited the Wells; and whilst residing here, it is said, sent her equerry, Colonel Sands, to inquire after the health of the new-born Prince of Wales. On the 2nd September, in this year, Archbishop Tillotson preached before the Princess Anne, in the chapel, his famous sermon on the parable of the ten virgins.

During the next ten years the Princess Anne frequently honored the Wells with her presence, and in 1696, gave a basin to the Spring, which was afterwards called " The Queen's Well." She was also a great benefactress to the place, and in 1698, in consequence of her son, the young Duke of Gloucester, falling, while on the walks, she gave one hundred pounds to "one of the principal inhabitants" to have the walks, &c., paved by the ensuing season. Whoever the inhabitant was, he neglected to fulfil his commission, and-the effects of his evil deeds were visible in the conduct of her Royal Highness, who, upon finding at her next visit, that no progress had been made in the work, quitted the Wells with strong expressions of disgust, and never visited the place again.

The Princess Anne of Denmark having succeeded to the throne in the year 1702, the inhabitants of the Wells in testimony of the favors that had been conferred upon them by her Majesty, planted a Grove on the Common, which was called " The Queen's Grove." The planting took place without any public ceremony. Whether it was owing to the nature of the soil, or to the birch trees with which it was planted not being suitable for it, the grove does not appear to have flourished.

In 1707, John, Duke of Buckingham, assigned to four Trustees four acres of land, part of Inham's and Waghorn's Forests, for the use and benefit of all the inhabitants and others of Tunbridge Wells, with instructions that the whole should be planted and preserved as a Grove. [ The Rev. T. W. Franklyn, J. L. Yeats, and James Deane, Esquires, have been appointed by the Trustees a Committee to preserve the Grove. ]

In the year 1708, Mr. James Long, of Marylebone, Middlesex, went to a considerable expense in erecting a Cold Bath and other buildings at Rusthall. The Bath was well supplied with water issuing from the rocks, and the grounds around it displayed water works, fountains, and other appropriate devices suitable to the situation, which is exceedingly romantic. This is one of the beautiful spots at Rusthall well worth visiting, for although the fountains, &c., have long since disappeared, there are objects enough still remaining to gratify the admirers of nature.

From 1707 to 1725, but little change appears to have taken place in the affairs of the Wells. But about the year 1735, was the time that the celebrated Beau Nash, the arbitur elegantiarum of Bath, made his appearance to give the laws for his new "colony" of Tunbridge Wells.

Their Royal Highnesses the Princess Amelia and the Duke of Cumberland visited the Wells in 1762, and remained for some time.

In the year 1765, we find the first notice of any public proceedings in honor of Royal Visitors. On a visit from the Dukes of York and Gloucester, who arrived about the middle of September, they were welcomed by a triple discharge of eighteen pieces of cannon, and in the evening the walks were most splendidly illuminated.

From the year 1790 to 1827, scarcely anything occurred worthy of particular notice, except that the place gradually improved, and was regularly visited by the most distinguished characters in the literary, political, and fashionable world. In the year 1801, when ladies wished to take an equestrian excursion, they were accommodated by being mounted on a pillion, in the good old Darby and Joan manner; but in that year, Lady George Seymour being here, was introduced the custom of riding on donkeys, which has continued the fashion ever since.

The most important alterations that the Wells had yet seen were commenced in 1828, on the CALVERLEY ESTATE, the property of John Ward, Esq.

comprises twenty-six acres, adjoining to and overlooking twenty acres of meadow and pleasure grounds in front of the Hotel, and contains twenty-four villas, chiefly of the Italian and Grecian style of architecture. The pleasure grounds are tastefully laid out and afford some very pleasant walks. There is a lodge at each entrance, called Victoria, Keston, and Farnborough lodges.

built in the form of a crescent, was originally intended for shops, but within the last few years all of them have been converted into dwelling houses. Immediately adjacent to the Promenade, is the

which was opened by Mr. E. Churchill, in 1840; the accommodations here are of a first-rate description, and the situation in which it is placed, commanding as it does an uninterrupted view over delightful scenery, renders it one of the most charming spots in the country. On the opposite side of it is

consisting of four double villas with pleasure grounds in front and gardens behind, communicating with the stables, coach-houses, &c.

immediately adjoining the terrace, is a range of twelve houses on a similar scale, but smaller; and at the back of these are the Calverley Mews. A short distance from the latter is the

originally built for a market place, but not succeeding as such, was leased by the proprietor to the Town Commissioners, who, in 1846, converted it into a Town Hall, Police Station, &c. The Magistrates and County Court Judge hold their sittings here. On a line with this is CALVERLEY PLACE, consisting of twelve houses and shops, near which waterworks have been erected to supply the inhabitants with excellent water from the celebrated Jack's-Wood Spring.

CALVERLEY QUARRY is of such repute, that it was one of those chosen with reference to the selection of stone for building the new Houses of Parliament.

Opposite one of the entrances to the park, is Baston Cottage, an elegant building in the gothic style of architecture, the residence of F. H, Brandram, Esq. Immediately adjacent to Baston Cottage, are the Calverley Nursery Grounds, in the occupation of Mr. William Piper, which afford a most delightful lounge to visitors. New roads, in the form of crescents, have been opened through these and the adjoining grounds, and the land has been judiciously laid out for building sites, on which several good houses have already been erected.

Near to this, passing Baston Cottage, is more desirable building land, overlooking Calverley Park. This land continues along on either side of the Woodsgate road, called " Calverley Fair Mile," and from its dry and airy position, is eminently calculated for first-rate residences. The views from it are beautifully varied and extensive.
Mr. Willicombe, our spirited builder, has erected with much taste and judgment, some excellent family houses on this land, which may be hired or purchased. Other leasehold building land, abutting the Common and the High Eocks Road, belonging to the Earl of Abergavenny, has also been laid out for villa residences. This is a delightful sunny bank, overlooking extensive and diversified scenery, and from its proximity to Mount Ephraim, Rusthall, and the Town, will become a favorite part for residence. Some excellent villas are already being erected here.

comprises a number of genteel residences and excellent lodging houses, which are eagerly sought after during the season. Immediately adjoining this is "The Grove".

near Bishop's Down, the property of the Earl of Abergavenny, has been happily chosen for building. It commands a most charming prospect, and its short distance from the chalybeate springs, renders it a particularly desirable residence for those who wish to derive benefit from the waters. Several good houses are already built here.

This is some eligible freehold land, laid out for building purposes, and from its retired situation and rural scenery is likely to be soon filled up with good houses.

still continues to be the favorite lounge and drive of the fashionable frequenters of the Wells, and appears to have recovered its ancient renown. It has long been celebrated for lodging-houses and private residences of the first class. MOUNT EPHRAIM HOTEL was erected in 1834, the prospect from which can be surpassed by few in the kingdom.

continues its ancient rivalry with Mount Ephraim. There are some lodging-houses here upon a very superior scale, that known as Eden house, was the residence of H. R. H. the Duchess of Kent, during the summer of 1849. The situation is extremely pleasant.

This is some building land recently laid out by the Marquess Camden, for the erection of a number of first class residences, approached from Grove Hill Road, and is admirably chosen for the purpose. Several excellent houses have already been built, one of which is occupied by Lady G, Pratt.

Considerable alterations have been also made in Church-road, Clarence-road, York-road, and Mount Ephraim-road, (the three latter are new roads) by the erection of several elegant private residences, lodging-houses, and shops.

But the inhabitants of the old part of the town did not look supinely on, whilst so many new buildings were flourishing around them. Many of the houses and shops, therefore on the Pantiles, [ The Walks were called the Pantiles from their having been originally paved with a sort of baked tile, so designated. ] have undergone a complete renovation. The orchestra has been altered and fresh decorated. Other building improvements have been made and many are now making in various parts of the place.
Near to the remaining part of Edger Terrace [ The larger portion of this Terrace has been taken down to form the Railway.] is Albert Place and Christ Church;
next to this, on the property of R.W. Blencowe, Esq., is a range of six shops, with dwelling houses attached, called Grove Terrace; and a little beyond, near Colbran's Library, other similar buildings are erected, known as Camden Place, the property of Messrs. Edger. These improvements fully support in character and name the High Street, of which they form a part.

Her present Majesty, with her royal mother, the Duchess of Kent, having frequently honored Tunbridge Wells by residing there in the season, chiefly at Calverley House, the inhabitants were anxious to afford them a proof of their attachment and gratitude. At a meeting of the freeholders of Rusthall Manor, in the autumn of 1834, it was considered that the most appropriate record of their feelings would he shown in planting a Grove on the common, adjoining Queen Anne's Grove, (now extinct,) to be called the Victoria Grove. The interesting ceremony took place on Thursday, the 12th of February, 1835. The Grove is 550 feet long, and 50 feet wide, and consists of three rows of trees, elms, limes, and sycamores-the trees being planted twelve feet apart.

In the summer of 1849, Her Majesty Queen Victoria, Adelaide, the Queen Dowager, Prince Albert, the Duchess of Kent, Louis Phillippe, and Adelaide Louisa, the ex-King and Queen of the French, visited this place.

"Some account of the air of Tunbridge Wells says Benge Burr, "will certainly be esteemed necessary to render this work tolerably complete," - the same might be said with equal truth of the water, but we do not so far concur with these opinions as to inflict such dissertations upon subjects that must be seen and felt to be properly appreciated. The air is dry, pure, and bracing - strengthening the attenuated frame, and tending much to exhilirate the spirits of the hypochondriac. In summer a gentle breeze prevails, which keeps the air delightfully cool and pleasant, whilst it wafts the fragrance of the wild thyme, the chamomile, and the innumerable sweet herbs that abound on the Common, and in every direction around it.

Not only does the immediate neighbourhood of Tunbridge Wells abound with mineral springs, but they are found at distances of twelve to fifteen miles from it. None of them, however, appear to have attained the celebrity that these have, although experiments have been tried at other springs.

" The water itself at the present spring is extremely clear and light, its taste is pleasingly steely. In point of heat it is invariably temperate, let the atmosphere be in whatever state it will. When it is first taken up in a large glass its particles continue at rest, till it is warmed to nearly the heat of the atmosphere, then a few airy globules begin to separate themselves and adhere to the sides of the vessel ; and, in a few hours more, a light copper-coloured scum begins to swim on the surface; after which an ochreous sediment settles at the bottom." [ Burr's " Historical Account," p 73.- Mr. Burr appears to have formed his opinion of the waters from the testimonies of Dr. Rowzee and Dr. Linden, ].
These changes are accounted for in the following manner: -
The water as it rises from the spring contains a solution of carbonate of iron in an excess of carbonic acid - the excess of acid readily escapes in the form of gas, leaving the carbonate of iron in the state of an insoluble precipitate. From the experiments of different chemists, it appears that the component parts of this water are - iron in its mildest state of solution, being in combination with carbonic acid gas, or fixed air, with a slighter trace of earthy salts than is usually met with in spring water. The quantity of carbonate, or rather proto-carbonate of iron in a gallon of water amounts to about three grains and a half - that of saline substances in combination, four and a half grains, making eight grains of solid matter in each gallon.

The following is an accurate analysis of a wine pint of it: -
GASES. - Cubic Inches.
Nitrogen - 0.59
Carbonic Acid - 1
Slight traces of Oxygen -

SOLIDS. - Grains.
Carbonate of Lime - 0.03
Sulphate of ditto - 0.17
Chloride of Sodium - 0.30
Hydrochlorate of Magnesia - 0.03
Ditto of Lime - 0.05
Protoxide of Iron - 0.28

To drink it in perfection, recourse must always be had at the fountain head. By an Act of Parliament, passed April 29th,, 1740, the spring is declared " open and free to the public," but from the first establishment of it, there has always been a certain number of females employed as Dippers, who attend at the spring with glasses, &c., for the accommodation ! of the visitors. The present shop over the springs forms part of the building that was, originally intended for baths and a pump room. Previous to this the large circular space round the springs was used by the country people who I attended there to dispose of their commodities. There was a sun dial in the centre of it, and they stationed themselves on the steps which led to the springs. The present portico or piazza over the springs, and the marble basins were added during the year 1847, at a cost of upwards of £400, raised by public subscription. I At this time was also introduced, having the recommendation of the medical profession of j the town, the following rules and regulations, with the appointment of the stewards of the spring, to whom is deputed the general management of the same :-

RULES AND REGULATIONS.

1. ATTENDANCE. - During Summer, from the 1st of April to the 1st of November, one Dipper to be in daily attendance from seven o'clock a.m. till six o'clock, p.m.; and two Dippers from seven to nine a.m., and from eleven to one p.m. During Winter, from the 1st of November to the 1st of April, one Dipper to be in daily attendance from eight a. m. to five p.m.

2. CLEANLINESS. - Strict cleanliness to be observed with respect to the waiting room, drinking glasses, basins, and other apparatus. The basins to be well cleansed every morning half an hour before the time fixed for attendance; and the private basin to be protected at night by a suitable cover.

3. REGISTRATION. - The Dippers shall keep in a book a correct register of the number of persons drinking the water, and of the period for which they subscribe. This book to be the property of the stewards.

4. SCALE OF CHARGES. - One week, 3s.; two weeks, 5s.; one month, 7s. 6d.; two months, 10s.; three months, 12s. Cd. ; six months £1.; and twelve months, £1 10s. A double subscription shall entitle any number of members of the same family to drink the waters. Subscriptions to be paid in advance. No demand to be made for tasting the water.

5. WARMING THE WATER. - The requisite apparatus tc be provided, free of additional charge, for warming a glass of the water, viz. - a clean glass flask, a narrow-stemmed thermometer, and a vessel of hot water.

STEWARDS : -

MR. JOHN COLBEAN, High Street.
MR. JOSEPH DELVES, Mount Sion.
MR. WILLIAM DELVES, Hargate Lodge.
MR. JAMES FBIEND, Parade.
MR. WILLIAM JEFFEBY, Frant Boad.
MR. BOBEBT NASH, Mount Ephraim.

In digging the foundations for the baths, in the year 1802, the workmen by some means, cut through the springs, and the next day, being Sunday, the -water rushed out in such quantities, that nearly all the congregation left the chapel, fearing an inundation. The spring yields about a gallon a minute, exclusive ol a considerable quantity of water that rises within the baths and passes off in another direction.

The great improvement of widening the north entrance to the Parade and Springs, and the erection of the present modern shops and buildings, by the Lord of the Manor, tooi place in 1854.

The salubrity of the air, with the efficacy of the water in many complaints, and the easy distance from the metropolis, have naturally made Tunbridge Wells a favorite resort of the fashionable world.

when the furze is in full bloom, would of itself amply compensate for the fatigue of a journey from the metropolis. Yet beautiful as this is, it is exceeded by the delightful walks and rides in every direction around the Wells. Previous to introducing the reader to these, we shall notice some of the principal mansions and lodging-houses in the place, that have not yet been noticed. As you approach the town from the metropolis, on the right is the Culverden property, which formerly belonged to the Countess of Huntingdon, who resided here. The present elegant mansion, the residence of Mrs. Jeddere Fisher, is not seen from the road. In one part of the grounds there is an unique building, having its lower apartments hewn out of the sand rocks. It is called the Swiss Cottage, and both the exterior and interior well merit the name.

In another part of the grounds, in a most romantic situation, is a modern-built tower, known as Culverden Castle, which overlook an extensive tract of country, and looks down immediately on a wild glen, which, with the necessary adjuncts of moustachioed faces and high-crowned hats, would have formed a capital study for Salvator Rosa.
Proceeding along Mount Ephraim you arrive at Douro House, which was occupied by the Duchess of Wellington at the time the battle of Salamanca was fought.
Boyne House was built by Lord Viscount Boyne, who called it Somerville in compliment to his lady, but it was afterwards named after his lordship. It was the residence of the Queen and the Duchess of Kent when they honored the town with a visit in 1835.
The cottage at the corner, now called Somerville Cottage, was occasionally the residence of the celebrated Rev. Wm. Huntingdon, S.S., and in one of the back rooms of it he died. His peculiarities are too well known to require notice in these pages.

Next to Boyne House is Wellington Place, which owes its designation to the late illustrious Duke. Sir George Buggin, knight, built the first house on this spot, which now forms Nos. 2 and 3.

Earl's Court, for many years the residence of the late Mrs. Tighe, now the property, by purchase, of the Hon. G. F. Molyneux, is said to have been built by Sir Edward King, one of the physicians to King Charles II.
Castle House [This house, once an hotel, has been pulled down, and a new one erected, called after the same name, the property and residence of the Rev. 1. W. Franklyn.] was once occupied by Mrs. Johnson, sister of the Bishop of Rochester, where the Lord Chief Justice Mansfield was frequently a guest.
Chancellor House stands in some extensive grounds near Nye's Tunbridge-Ware Manufactory. It was formerly the residence of Judge Jeffries. It afterwards became the property of Sir Richard Heron, Bart., who considerably enlarged and improved it.
The house adjoining Nye's, (late Tenner's,) Repository, called Ephraim House, we have already noticed as having probably been the residence of Charles II and his court. It is a large commodious building, and some parts of it have been recently modernised by the present proprietor, W. Elers, Esq., J.P.

Bishop's Down Grove, the residence of D. J. Robertson, Esq., was once the property of Sir George Kelly, knight, an eminent physician, from whose descendants it was purchased by Major Yorke, who resided here for upwards of twenty-fire years.

On the rival hill, Mount Sion, is Cumberland House, formerly the residence of Richard Cumberland, Esq., whose fame as a dramatic writer, will outlive his reputation as a diplomatist.
At Burlington House, lived Sir James Bland Burgess ; and North Grove House, behind Christ Church, was the occasional residence of Lord North.
Descending the hill, on the left, is a row of buildings called Cumberland Gardens, and at the end is Cumberland Terrace, so named from its having been the favorite promenade of the Duke and Duchess of Cumberland. This terrace is pleasantly situated, and has some excellent lodging houses. There are fields and gardens in front, with the little stream that divide the counties running between them.

THE CHAPEL OF EASE was opened for divine worship in 1678, under a temporary roof, the building not being then completed. It appears to have been finished in the year 1684. The Chapel is dedicated to King Charles the Martyr. In 1688, a subscription was commenced for its enlargement, which was continued in each succeeding season for about eight years, and amounted to upwards of nine hundred pounds. The two lists of subscribers are in the vestry room. In the first list is the name of the Princess Anne of Denmark for £10 15s., and in the second, for the enlargement of the chapel, her royal highness's name appears for £53 15s. In 1829, and four following years, the repairs of building the turret and flooring amounted to £470 8s. In the year 1846, the organ gallery, schoolroom, and vestry were rebuilt at the cost of £650; and in 1847, a new organ was erected at the cost of £200. In addition to which, a new chapel school for boys was erected in 1845, on a new site, and on a larger scale, at the cost of £807 6s, 4d. The total amount of these improvements, viz: - £2,127 14s. 4d. was raised principally by voluntary contributions.

There is no endowment for the clergyman, whose income is derived from the subscriptions of the visitors and inhabitants frequenting the chapel.

The sittings in the chapel are free, and the organist is paid by subscription. Divine service is performed here twice on Sundays-at eleven in the morning, and at half-past six: in the evening. The sacrament is administered the first Sunday in every month.
The incumbent is the Rev. W. L. Pope; Mr. Fox, organist; and Mr. John Jenner, clerk.

THE DISTRICT CHURCH.- This building was completed in about two years, and on the 3rd September, 1829, it was consecrated. The Church is called Holy Trinity. It cost upwards of £12,000. There is no endowment for the clergyman, whose income is derived from the pew rents. The graveyard of this church being filled, another piece of land has been purchased, in connexion with the church, opposite the brewery on the London road, on which a small chapel has been erected. It was consecrated for interments in the autumn of 1849.

The present incumbent is the Rev. Edward Hoare. The clerk is Mr. T. Hickmott.

Sittings may be obtained of Mrs. Hastings, Church road.
Divine service is performed on Sundays at eleven in the morning, half-past three in the afternoon, (in winter at three), and at seven in the evening. The sacrament is administered on the first Sunday in the month.

CHRIST CHURCH is situated in the High-street, near the Railway Station. The foundation stone was laid on the 9th of September, 1835, but the church was not opened for divine worship till the 9th of May, 1841, after it had become the property, by purchase, of the present minister, the Rev. Thomas Ward Franklyn. The church is supported entirely by the pew rents.

The services on Sundays are 11 a.m., 3 p.m., (1/2-past 3 on Sacrament Sundays,) 1/2-past 6 p.m., and on Wednesday at 7 p.m. The sacrament is administered on the last Sunday in the month.
Sittings may be taken of Mr. Gardener, Chemist, High street.

THE CHURCH OF ST. PAUL, RUSTHALL, was built by subscription, and consecrated in August, 1850, for the accommodation of those parts of the parish of Speldhurst, which border on the commons of Tun-bridge Wells and Eusthall. More than half the sittings are free and unappropriated. The Church, which is unendowed, is wholly supported by the rent of the remaining sittings.

The hours of service are 11 a.m., and 3.30p.m., (3p.m. in winter,) on Sunday ; 11 a.m. on Wednesdays, Fridays, and Holy-days. The Holy Communion is administered on the second, and Public Baptism on the last Sunday in the month.
The Rev. B. F. Smith is the present Curate, assisted by the Rev. H. H. Still; Mr. Robert Elliott, Parade, is the Churchwarden; C. Hunt, Rusthall, Clerk ; and J. Roberts, Neville Road, Sexton.

SION CHAPEL.- This Chapel is situated on Little Mount Sion. It was built by voluntary subscriptions, and opened for divine service on the 1st of August, 1720, for the use of the presbyterians. It was closed in the year 1814, and re-opened on the 8th of July, 1830, by the Independents. It is now used as a place of worship by the Wesleyan Reformers.

THE CONGREGATIONAL, or INDEPENDENT CHAPEL is a new erection, opposite Calverley Parade, a spacious stone building, built by subscription, and opened for divine worship in 1847. The cost of this erection was £3,700, exclusive of the ground, which was given by the Rev. B. Slight, the first officiating minister.
The Rev. W. P. Lyon is the present minister.

The stated public services in this place of worship are as follows :-on Sabbath days, at eleven in the morning, and a 1/4 before seven in the evening; on Monday evenings, prayer meetings at seven ; and lecture on Wednesday evenings at seven.

THE COUNTESS OF HUNTINGDON'S CHAPEL.- This chapel is situated at the entrance of the town from the metropolis. It is a neat wooden edifice-one small portion only being finished with tiles. It was built by Selina, the celebrated Countess of Huntingdon, who resided at Tunbridge Wells, in 1768, at a house on the Culverden, on the site of which Mrs. Jeddere Fisher's mansion is built.

Divine service is performed here on Sundays in the morning at eleven, and in the evening at half-past six o'clock, and the sacrament is administered on the first Sunday in the month. There is a prayer meeting on Monday evenings, and a lecture on Tuesday evenings; each service commencing at seven o'clock.
The minister the Rev. George Jones, resides in a house near the chapel; and the clerk, Mr. George Budgen, lives at Ephraim Terrace.

THE HANOVER BAPTIST CHAPEL.- The first traces of this body of worshippers here appears to have been not earlier than the middle of the eighteenth century, as we find somewhere about the year 1770 a chapel was built for " The General Bapists," immediately adjoining Ephraim House, and was pulled down about the year 1809. The burying ground, though sadly neglected, still marks the spot. About the year 1833, some few serious persons occasionally assembled for worship belonging to the sect of Particular Baptists, and they commenced the present neat building in Hanover road, on the 14th August, 1834.
Divine service is performed here on Sundays, in the morning at eleven, afternoon at three, and evening at half-past six o'clock ; and on Monday and Thursday evenings at seven o'clock.
The present minister is Mr. Austen, the clerk is Mr. J. Austen, who lives in the Windmill Fields.

THE WESLEYAN CHAPEL.-This structure is pleasantly situated at Vale Royal, facing the Common, and adjoining the London road. It is a plain, neat building, without architectural pretensions. In 1841, the chapel was added to by new entrance wings, side galleries, &c.; and in 1847, was again considerably enlarged.
Divine service is performed here twice on Sundays, viz., at eleven o'clock in the morning, and at half-past six in the evening ; and on Thursday evenings at seven. Prayer meeting on Monday evening at seven o'clock.

REHOBOTH BAPTIST CHAPEL.- This is a. neat and commodious building, erected in 1851, at the back of Chapel-place, for the worship of the Particular Baptists.
Mr. Thomas Edwards is the officiating minister.
Services on Sundays at 11 a.m., and half-past 6 p.m.; a Prayer Meeting in the afternoon at 3 ; also, a Prayer Meeting on Monday evenings at 7 ; and a Lecture on Wednesday evenings at seven.

ROMAN CATHOLIC CHAPEL.- The Church of St. Augustine is situated in the Grosvenor road. It was built by subscription. The foundation was laid in 1837, and it was opened in 1838, with a pontifical mass.
Morning service begins at eleven o'clock, and the afternoon at three o'clock.

THE TUNBRIDGE-WARE has obtained such celebrity in all parts of the world, that it appears almost a work of supererogation to give it a detailed notice. These toys appear to have been first made at Speldhurst, but the manufacturer's art was then chiefly confined to the making of humming tops and small turnery ware. It is probable that when these articles were first made, one species of wood only was used in their composition ; the art of veneering was unknown, and the ambition of the makers appears to have been confined to working such woods as were found in their immediate neighbourhood. Encouraged by their extraordinary success, the art obtained a wider range, and instead of the simple wood, [ The British woods chiefly used in the manufacture of the wars are holly, yew, cherry, stem of furze, broom, white and hlack thorn, laurel, &c. Many of the dressing-cases, work-boxes, &c., now made contain upwards of forty varieties of native wood, besides foreign.] other and more adventurous spirits attempted greater things. This led to the introduction of veneering, and afterwards, from an accidental occurrence, the present mosaic system was acted upon. In the year 1826, the inhabitants presented to her Majesty (then Princess Victoria) a table, beautifully veneered with party-colored woods from every part of the globe. Some fine specimens were exhibited at the Great Exhibition of 1851.

THE original amusements of the Wells appear to have partaken more of a rural character than any other, for there were frequently balls and breakfasts given al fresco, when the fashionable visitors amused and regaled themselves on the upper walks, and the tradesmen with those of a lower class, contented themselves with looking on from the lower walks, which now forms the space in front of the Sussex Hotel; and within fifty years it was by no means an uncommon occurrence on ball nights for the windows of the Assembly-rooms to be opened to their full extent, and the trades- ; people of both sexes to dance on the Parade to the enlivening strains that were animating their • more aristocratic neighbours within.

The admission to the balls was half-a-crown each for the gentlemen, and one shilling each for the ladies. They began at six o'clock in the evening and ended at eleven. The celebrated Beau Nash first officiated here as master of the ceremonies, and the following gentlemen have successively held the office: - Messrs. Collet, Derick, Blake, Tyson, Fotheringham, Amsinck, Roberts, Captain Merryweather, and Lieut. Madden, R.M. The latter gentleman resigned at the end of the season of 1836. Since then the office has been dispensed with, and vhen public balls are now given, certain gentlemen act as stewards for the evening. At present there are no fixed amusements at the Wells. Balls are given occasionally, but at no particular intervals; and during the season, there are generally concerts at the Assembly-rooms. Cricket matches also usually take place in the month of August. There is a good billiard room on the Parade.

During the fashionable season musicians are engaged, who perform in the orchestra on the Parade, and on the Common, by Mount Ephraim : they are paid by subscriptions from the visitors and inhabitants.

Hunting and fowling may be enjoyed in the neighbourhood-for the latter, it is the custom to hire the right of shooting over certain property-some hundred of acres of good sporting ground being to let, at a reasonable rent, for the season. A subscription pack of Harriers are kept here.

Good fishing may be easily obtained by permission of the proprietors of the small and large streams, in the immediate neighbourhood of the Wells. The water-mill pond, through the Hurst-wood, the High 'Rocks, Groombridge, Etchingham, and Penshurst, are favorite places for the followers of old " Isaak Walton."

This building was originally the site of the Theatre, which was converted by a company into a Corn Exchange, in which a market is held every Friday. The room on other days may be hired for public purposes. The original Corn Market Room is at the Kentish Hotel.

There are several circulating libraries, but two only have reading rooms attached-one of which is conducted by Mr. Nash, Parade, and the other by Mr. Colbran, High Street, the publisher of this work-both are well supplied with modern publications and the metropolitan newspapers.

There are three literary societies here, viz. -the " Literary and Scientific Society," the "Useful Knowledge Institution," and the "Belgrave Reading Room."
The first society has a library and a small museum, containing, among other things, some specimens of fossils, chiefly of those found in the neighbourhood.
The Useful Knowledge Institution has a suitable library attached to it. The committees of the two latter provide lecturers periodically in the autumn and winter.
There is also an Horticultural Society, which, has its shows during the year for the distribution of prizes.

On the Calverley Promenade there are shampooing and vapour baths, which have been patronised by royalty.

This is a handsome stone building, situated in the Grosvenor-road, supported wholly by voluntary contributions. The liberal sum of £3,000 was subscribed towards the expenses of the building and fitting it up. Two physicians and three surgeons of the place afford their gratuitous services; and there is a resident house surgeon. Subscribers of one guinea a year become governors of the institution, and can have two patients always on the books. Subscribers of half a guinea a year, one patient. In-door patients are also received here.

The branch line of the London and Dover Railway from Tunbridge to Tunbridge Wells, was opened to the public on the 19th September, 1845. The length of the branch from Tunbridge to the station here is five miles, which it approaches by a tunnel about 800 yards long, passing under Basinghall, the high road, and Mr. A. D. Thomson's pleasure grounds to the terminus at the foot of Mount Pleasant hill, formerly the site occupied by Bell's Brewery, from thence the branch to Hastings passes under the turnpike road and Edger Terrace, though a short cutting, to the tunnel under the Grove, which is 858 feet long, coming out by the southern side of the Grove. The distance to Hastings is 28 miles.

The open wastes called Rusthall Common and Bishop's Down, forming together one of the greatest attractions of Tunbridge Wells, comprise about 265 acres; viz.- Bishop's Down, or Tunbridge "Wells Common, 172 acres; and Rusthall Common 93 acres.

Rusthall is a very ancient manor, from which the possessors formerly derived their surname. The present lord is Captain Weller.

The freehold tenants, being greatly interested in the Commons, have annual meetings for the purpose of perambulating the boundaries of the manor, and of viewing encroachments, &c.

The generally recieved opinion is, that the original manor-house stood upon Rusthall Common. About sixty years since, two ancient edifices, one of them a stone building, were pulled down. One of these stood upon Mr. Robertson's pleasure grounds, to the right of the turnpike-road, where there is now an ornamental spire, and the other, some two or three hundred yards below it, on a spot nearly covered with holly.

Whilst we are in this locality, we would point out to the attention of the visitor the singularly shaped rocks which are on the Common ; one of them is called the " Toad Rock." It is considered by some persons that the hand of the artisan has been employed to assist in the singular formation of this rock, but the slightest investigation will convince the most incredulous that its shape has been produced by natural causes alone.

On the right of the path, approaching this, is another curious rock resembling a lion couchant.

THERE are many agreeable walks in every direction around the Wells, each of them possessing strong claims for preference, and all boasting of attractions for the admirers of rural and forest scenery. The favorite ramble of pedestrians is across the Common, The singular appearance of many of the rocks here cannot fail to interest the most casual observer. The prospect from the common is very extensive, and it commands a fine panoramic view of the town; a striking object in the foreground of which is Romanoff House, a. modern building in the gothic style of architecture. It is occupied by Mr. T. R. Allfree, who has established a classical school here for the education of young gentlemen-a perfect model of its kind.

The HURST WOOD affords another delightful stroll. Turning to the right, you pass the old Baptist burying ground and Ashburnham House, and then proceed down a shady lane through some fields to the wood, which is the property of D. J. Robertson, Esq. It is laid out in walks, and seats are provided for the accommodation of visitors.

Very delightful rural walks may be taken by going across the fields to Speldhurst; either by way of Lower Green, or to Rusthall Common down the Workhouse Lane. On crossing the stream at the bottom of the fields, going to the Hurst Wood, over a stile on the right, is a footpath that leads past the Swiss Cottage, the Tower, etc., to Culverden Down and the London road. A longer walk can be taken by going across the Down to the Tanyard Farm, passing the farther end of the Hurst Wood, the Water Mill [ Angling is permitted in the mill-pond by applying at the house and making a trifling remuneration. ] Broom-hill, the beautiful villa of D. Salomons, Esq., and leaving Bentham-hill, the residence of A. Pott, Esq , on the left, following the bridle road past the Cross Keys to the Wells.

There is another pleasant walk from Mount Ephraim across Bishop's Down to Rusthall Common, on approaching which, to the right, passing the Toad Rock, is another rural walk to the Hurst Wood. To the left of the road leading across Rusthall Common, is a Farmhouse, the property of the Earl of Abergavenny. It is in the style of a yeoman's house of the Tudor times. To the right of this is the Toad Rock, a short distance from which, across the common, is the spot where once stood the assembly-rooms and a bowling-green; and nearly opposite the latter is the original cold bath.

The transparent substances, apparently pebbles, which are found upon the several paths leading to the common, especially after rain, are actually crystals, rounded and coated by attrition, and the minutest ones are always more accurately formed than the larger ones. They partake of the Nova Mina, of Brazil, exactly in quality, where it occurs, both as detached and massive crystals. The rounding by attrition is a clear proof thai at some very remote period, they have been acted upon in some such way as the pebbles of the sea-shore ; and they thus afford corroborative evidence to the assump tion, that this neighbourhood has, at one time, been and arm of the sea. The natural position of these crystals in the South of England, is in the white or grey marl, found above and below the chalk, but chiefly below it, in their layers. These crystals when cut and polished, are extremely brilliant, and are introduced into rings, brooches, and other ornamental articles of jewellery.

Colbran's Hand-Book and Visitor Guide, 1855 - Local Information

Colbran's Hand-Book and Visitor Guide, 1855 - The Professions

York Road in Royal Tunbridge Wells, Kent, England Information on history of York Road and Church Road . Find photos, old maps and full texts of various books about Tunbridge Wells (1810, 1855, 1912, before 1946).

ALL YOU EVER WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT ROYAL TUNBRIDGE WELLS CD-Rom: Historical and Interesting Views of Tunbridge Wells [ Edition 2003 was released January 2004 ] Edition 2004 was release December 2004